Vinalhaven, ME Road Trips

Vinalhaven was incorporated as a town in 1789, named in honor of John Vinal, a Boston attorney who helped early settlers secure legal land titles. During the 19th century, the Island became a massie industrial powerhouse when high-grade, exceptionally durable Vinalhaven pink granite was discovered. Massive quarrying operations drew thousands of skilled stonemasons from across Europe, and the Island's stone was shipped nationwide to construct landmark American monuments, including the base of the Statue of Liberty and columns for the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in New York City. The town's modern identity is shaped by a distinct coastal duality: The working harbor: Carver's Harbor, situated on the southern tip of the island, remains a highly active, un-gentrified fishing port crowded with multi-generational lobster boats, bait sheds, and fuel docks. The wilderness sanctuary: Over a quarter of the island's entire landmass is permanently protected by local land trusts, offering undisturbed coastal ecosystems completely free of commercial strip malls or franchise fast-food chains.

Lane's Island. Protected by the Nature Conservancy, this beautiful preserve is a must-see. If you have one day on the island, you want to do a picnic lunch here. There are numerous paths around the serene little island, and they are frequented by many dog-walkers and friendly "summer people." There's a sizable field for Frisbee and other such games, and picnic tables around for your use. Everyone knows about it, so don't expect the place to yourself. Tiptoe Mountain. At 59 ft (18 m) high, it offers a great view of Crockett river. Off of North Haven Road. If headed north on North Haven Rd, turn left on Tip Toe Road, and continue until the road bends right. There is a small parking area there. Brown's Head Lighthouse. The only lighthouse on Vinalhaven. You may view the lighthouse, but stay away from the building as it is a private residence. It is right off of North Haven Road. If going north on North Haven Road, turn left on Tip Toe Road and turn right on Brown's Head Road. The lighthouse is at the end of the road. State Beach. A beach island which becomes a Peninsula off Vinalhaven at low tide. Take the main road through town, Pequot road to where the remains of the Coke bottle statue are and veer right. Turn right on State Beach Road and go until you can't. Perry Creek. A preserve composed of a handful of trails, including one of the better kept secrets of the island. Fox Rocks is an outcropping of granite closer to the center of the island with a fantastic 360-degree overlook. Off of North Haven Road, across the street from Middle Mountain.

Hike Tip-Toe Mountain Preserve: Head to the eastern shore lines to trek through this peaceful, dense spruce forest sanctuary managed by the Vinalhaven Land Trust. Climbing to the rocky summit provides a spectacular, un-inhibited panoramic view over Fox Islands Thorofare and distant mainland mountain ridges. Kayaking Carver's Harbor: Rent a sea kayak at the local docks to paddle through the sheltered coves, navigating quietly around active fishing channels, granite rock outcrops, and spotting local harbor seals basking on outer ledges.

Vinalhaven has a volatile economy for restaurants. If you've visited the island in previous years, don't come back expecting the same restaurants to be in the same place. This makes for some interesting exploring every time you return. But there are some reliable choices: The Harbor Gawker, Main St, ☏ +1 207 863-9365. Good Americana food, fast-seafood, and great view in the dining room. Closest you're going to get to a fast food joint, but that doesn't mean it's fast (on the contrary, runs on island time). Well worth the patience. A BYOB establishment. The Pizza Pit, Main St, ☏ +1 207 863-4311. Great pizza for an island. Great pizza for anywhere outside of New York, frankly. Also a BYOB establishment. The Sand Bar, Main St. Vinalhaven's late night eatery. It's open until 9PM. It serves pub food and drinks. The Haven, Main St, ☏ +1 207 863-4969. Fantastic food. Great drinks. Good people. Call for a reservation (seatings at 6:00 and 8:15) in the back room overlooking the water or pop into the more casual front room open from 5:30-9:00 nightly. Open Tuesday-Saturday in high season. Trickerville Sandwich Shop, Water St. A great sandwich shop. Fast, friendly service at a reasonable price. Lobstah!, Main St. Ah, here it is! Do it yourself, fresh off the dock lobster. Go to the town gas station and co-op (right next to the Ferry Terminal), and ask the attendant for lobster. Depending on the season, She might ask "Sheddahs or Hahd-shells?" Shedders are cheaper, but Hardshells taste a whole lot better. Your call.

The local Grocery store on Main street carries many common beverages. You can also find your favorite regular beers and whatnot at the Fisherman's Friend (left out of the motel, halfway down Main Street toward the ferry terminal). By and large, the Vinalhaven drinking culture is a more salt-of-the-sea, beer-drinking community. Fortunately for the more refined taste: Island Spirits, 32 Main St. At caters a modest selection of classier drinks than you should hope to find on a small fishing island.

Vinalhaven has little selection in its accommodations. The presumption is that in getting there, you probably have a friend or some family to stay with. There is however, a single motel If you prefer a more personal touch to your accommodations, there are also a couple of very nice Bed-and-Breakfasts just off Main Street. Camping is explicitly prohibited anywhere on the island. There are no campgrounds, so don't think you can just rough it if you're short of cash or shy of the island accents. Tidewater Motel, 15 Main St, ☏ +1 207-863-4618. It's nicely equipped and renovated for what it is. Libby House Bed & Breakfast, 8 Water St, ☏ +1 207 863-4696. Payne Homestead, 47 Atlantic Ave, ☏ +1 207 863-9963.

Vinalhaven, being an island, requires a little bit of foreknowledge as a destination. The best route in from outside New England is to fly to Boston's Logan Airport. Get in before 11:25AM and you can catch a Concord Coachlines bus to Rockland (for about $35--catch the bus first, and buy the ticket at the first stop--Boston's South Station). You'll get into Rockland around 4:30PM. The bus will drop you off at the Maine State Ferry terminal parking lot, which is fortunate, because you'll have only a few minutes to catch the boat. Ferry tickets for pedestrians are $17.50. The ferry ride is a little more than 75 minutes. But unlike the plane or bus, you're not restricted to your seat. Riders effectively have free rein on deck and on the lookout landing below the bridge. And be sure you take advantage of it. The ride is fantastic (albeit impossibly windy and frequently cold). You'll pass two lighthouses, uncountable sailboats, and catch your only unfettered view of the Fox Islands on one side and the Camden hills on the other. If you're really lucky, you might even glimpse an elusive seal (although they give the ferries a wide berth). If for whatever reason you miss the 4:30 Vinalhaven Ferry, there is a contingency plan. You can catch a 5:15 ferry to North Haven Island. The ride is an about as long and even more interesting. When you arrive in North Haven, walk down the road to Brown's Boat Yard, and ask around for a skiff ride to the other side. People are generally friendly, and you shouldn't have a problem finding a lift.

With careful logistical planning, it is possible to get a car onto the island, but be sure you have at least three days to waste each way. There are 4 automobile reservations for three of the six boats and you must get them one month in advance in person at the ferry terminal when they open or by calling the ferry terminal from which you are departing no earlier than 9:30AM. In the summer months, the reservations are gone before the earliest time you can call for them. Best advice: don't bother with it. If you mist have a car on the island, ask a terminal employee where you should put your car to get in line. You can usually get on within 2-3 ferries of when you put your car in line. If there aren't 2-3 ferries left in the day, just sleep in you car, but keep yourvcar in the line. If you leave, you lose your place in queue. You'll get onto the first boat 90% of the time because many VH residents put their cars in line, ride the last boat home, ride the first boat back the following morning, and catch the second in their car. This means that the first of the day is the least competitive. If all this seems like too much trouble, you can just forget about your car. The island is only 5 miles long by 7 miles wide (in a crescent shape), with 49 miles of paved road. This means that for any given journey, you'll never need to go more than 5 miles (or thereabouts). Despite the way the locals seem to drive, walking on the roads is a safe means of transportation.

Quarry swimming caution: While Lawson's Quarry is beautiful and deep, the fresh spring-fed water remains intensely cold even during peak summer months. Be aware of sudden deep drops and avoid jumping from high granite ledges, as submerged rocks can create severe hazards. Ferry schedule discipline: The final afternoon ferry departures back to mainland Rockland leave strictly on time. Always arrive and line up at the ferry docks at least 45 minutes prior to scheduled departure times. Missing the last vessel means you will be stranded on the island overnight, and securing short-notice hotel rooms during the summer is extremely difficult.