Salem, MA Road Trips

For thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans, the Naumkeag people enjoyed life on this rocky peninsula. Contact with early explorers was calamitous, and disease would shatter their society. Throughout the 17th century, a series of wars and pogroms pushed them to the brink of extinction. In 1686, Naumkeag survivors pressed their claim in court, and were given £20 (roughly $5,000 today) in payment for their land. Salem is perhaps best known for the Salem witch trials, which began during the winter of 1692. Two little girls began behaving erratically, acts which town elders quickly deemed "witchcraft". A flurry of accusations and trials would play out over the course of the following year. By the time the outrage subsided, over 200 villagers stood accused of witchcraft. 19 were hanged, 5 died in jail, and one was pressed to death. In hindsight, the major political upheaval of the day combined with neighborly quarrels likely sparked the mass hysteria. The accused were overwhelmingly women (78%), and were often impoverished, having little means to speak of. During the American Revolution, hundreds of large privateers arrived in Salem to assist the patriot cause. These vessels and their crews saw a great deal of action, scuttling somewhere around 600 British ships. Post-war, sea captains turned their attention to distant lands; the East Indies, China, and Zanzibar to name but a few. Warships were modified to support commerce, and bold Captain-entrepreneurs imported pepper, silks and other luxuries with windfall profits.

If you've only got one day, take a brisk walk through the Peabody Essex Museum, then maybe try to squeeze in a tour of the House of Seven Gables. Spend the rest of the day investigating whatever piques your interest along Derby street in the Maritime National Historic Site. With extra time, it's easy to tailor an itinerary to your interests. There's plenty more to see at the PEM, architecture buffs will head for the Chestnut Street District, and nature lovers have a variety of options beyond the city center to explore. Parents might try Forest River Park or perhaps some of the kitschy stuff with older children. If you're open to it, the Satanic Temple is a true "only in Salem" experience. 1 Peabody Essex Museum (PEM), 161 Essex St, ☏ +1 978-745-9500, [email protected]. Th-M 10AM-5M. Caféː 10AM-4PM. The Peabody Essex Museum is a leading museum of Asian art and culture and early American maritime trade and whaling; its collections of Indian, Japanese, Korean, and Chinese art, and in particular Chinese export porcelain, are among the finest in the country. Founded in 1799, it is the oldest continuously operating museum in the United States. The museum owns and exhibits a number of historic houses in downtown Salem. In 2003, it completed a massive $100-million renovation and expansion, designed by architect Moshe Safdie, and moved a 200-year-old 16-room Chinese home from Xiuning County in southeastern China to the grounds of the museum. Gift shop available in person and online.

Unless it's calling to you, most items on this list are skippable if pressed for time. Although parents (and children at heart) should make note of the options available at Salem Willows. 1 Fort Lee, Fort Ave. 24 hours daily. These 5 point irregular star fort is what remains of earthworks constructed in 1776, during the Revolutionary War. Some original bits remain, although it has been modified dozens of times over the years. Granted to the Federal Government in 1867, it was returned to Salem in 1922. Some trails and interpretive signs were added at the nation's bicentennial, but they were removed and the site is today overgrown. The paths are well trod today, and it's certainly worth a visit to any history buff. Free. (updated Apr 2022) 2 Misery Islands (Float a ½ mile across Salem Sound by private boat, dinghy, canoe, or kayak.), ☏ +1 978 526-8687. Sunrise-sunset daily. In the past Great Misery Island played host to a golf club and manicured course with over two dozen permanent cottages. However; a fire in 1926 destroyed pretty much everything, and an 87-acre nature reserve was established here in 1935. Today the islands are uninhabited and managed by The Trustees. The peculiar name originates with shipbuilder Robert Moulton. After being stranded on the islands during a winter storm in the 1620s, he described his experience as "three miserable days". Nearby, Little Misery Island can be reached from Great Misery on foot by wading across at low tide. If you lack a private vessel, Essex Heritage Tours offers occasional day trips here in summer. Free.

Visitors should expect to find a wide range of elevated fare, often rubbing shoulders alongside classic dining experiences. Many tourists descend on the area for the first class seafood options, which are in no short supply. Unsurprisingly, many are found along the looping Wharf Street, fronting the harbor. The highest concentration of restaurants can be found on Washington street from Derby to Essex streets. Lappin Park in particular has a few worthy mid-range options along its borders. As with all tourist zones, local gems await your discovery just a short walk from the center of the action. These eateries remain open throughout the winter months, when usually the only changes you'll see are to the menu. 1 Melt Ice Cream, 60 Washington St, ☏ +1 978-826-5703. M 3-7PM, W-Th 1-9PM, F 1-10PM, Sa noon-10PM, Su noon-9PM, Tu Closed. Boasting about 20 rotating flavors, stop in to one of the finest purveyors of ice cream in town. Sustainable and organic ingredients used wherever possible, and locally owned. Two converted parking spaces provide outdoor seating. $5-8. (updated Sep 2022) 2 A&J King Artisan Bakers, 48 Central St, ☏ +1 978-744-4881. 8AM-3PM daily. Opened in 2006, this bakery won a Best of Boston award from Boston Magazine in 2009 & 2012. Serves fresh breads & pastry, coffee & tea in a traditional cafe setting. Plenty of sammie options for breakfast and lunch. PB&J and Fluffernutters for the kids. $4-15. (updated Sep 2022) 3 Boston Hot Dog Co., 60 Washington St, ☏ +1 978-744-4168. M-Sa 11AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM.

1 All Soul's Lounge, 282 Derby St, ☏ +1 978-306-7906. M-Th 5PM-1AM, F-Su 11:30AM-1AM. A neighborhood bar with an old-school tiki-esque–but not–kind of vibe. Friendly people and one of the best jukeboxes on the north shore. Kitchen bangs out custom hotdogs and grilled cheeses until 11PM, and it's 21+ after 9. First come, first serve; with limited outdoor seating options in nicer weather. Food $8-12, beer & wine $8, cocktails $12. (updated Sep 2022) 2 Bit Bar, 278 Derby St, ☏ +1 978-594-4838. W Th 4PM-midnight, F 4PM-1AM, Sa noon-1AM, Su noon-midnight. Classic arcade games in a pub atmosphere. All the fan favorites from air hockey and skee-ball, to Donkey Kong, Tron, and Mortal Kombat II. Their pinball machines even work! More craft brews and classic cocktails than you can shake a stick at. Full menu, outdoor seating. $10-20. (updated Apr 2022) 3 The Derby, 189 Washington St, ☏ +1 978-740-2337. Su-Th 11:30AM-midnight, F Sa 11:30AM-1AM. Over 30 flat screen TVs - the biggest sports bar in downtown - open very late - full bar & huge patio. $20-40. (updated Apr 2022) 4 The Lobster Shanty, 25 Front St, ☏ +1 978-745-5449. M-Th 5PM-midnight, F Sa noon-midnight. Once a dive bar, now a classy dive bar. Serving the good people of Salem circa 1980. Offering cocktails, BBQ, and of course lobster rolls. Puppers are welcome on the patio. No reservations, first come first served. $20-30. (updated Apr 2022) 5 Notch Brewing, 283R Derby St, ☏ +1 978-412-7674. M-W 4-10PM, Th noon-10PM, F Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-8PM.

Due to its small size, pretty much everything in Salem is going to be "right in the heart of it all". The high season here runs from Memorial Day until Halloween. Book well in advance to ensure your bunk! Sleeping here on Halloween night? Make your reservations by Thanksgiving. For real. Most accommodations are basically the same price, around $300 once you factor in taxes, fees, and surcharges. Same story for AirBnB and similar services. If you're looking to save money, there is a campsite on Winter Island. If roughing it's not your thing, there are more affordable options along the Route 1 & I-95 corridor in Peabody and Danvers, but then you'll have to deal with driving here. 1 Amelia Payson House (Bed & Breakfast), 16 Winter St, ☏ +1 978-744-8304. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. This bed and breakfast was built for Amelia and Edward Payson in 1845. Today the home features three guest rooms, each with private bathrooms. Each offers on-site parking, cable TV, A/C and the hotel received an editor’s choice award from Yankee Magazine. The most recent renovations took place in 2022. Children under 12 not allowed. From $200-325. Minimum 2-3 night stay in the high season. (updated Jul 2022) 2 The Daniels House (Bed & Breakfast), 1 Daniels St, ☏ +1 978-594-8757. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Purportedly the oldest bed and breakfast in America, this home dates from 1667. This place is a must stay, if you're into first-period early colonial history (the ceilings are low and you may have to share a bathroom).

If you're day tripping from Boston and just concentrating on the core downtown area, your best bet could be the train. It's affordable, takes a ½ hour, and runs somewhat often. The ferry provides outstanding views, but it takes an hour and is more expensive and infrequent. A car can be a good idea if you're visiting other north shore locations, but high season parking can be challenging. The trip might take 30 minutes to an hour or more depending on traffic. 1 Salem Station, 252 Bridge St (MBTA Newburyport/Rockport). 5AM-midnight. Open since 1838, Salem Station has been rebuilt four times; most recently in 2014. Its accessible platforms and secure bike parking are just a few blocks north of the town center. Trains departing from Boston's North Station take about 30 minutes to arrive. Trains run roughly once an hour, and every 30 minutes M-F during rush hours. Fares cannot be purchased at the station, please use the MBTA mTicket app. $8 from Boston one way. (updated Apr 2022) 2 Salem Ferry, 10 Blaney St, ☏ +1 978-741-0220. 4-5 ferries daily May 26 - Oct 31. Hop aboard the Nathaniel Bowditch, a 92-foot catamaran with a top speed of 30 knots which makes the trip between Salem and Boston's Long Wharf in 50 minutes to an hour. A bit pricier than the train, but the views of Nahant, Marblehead, and minor islands more than make up for it. Light snacks and cash bar on board. No extra charge for bicycles. $25, $23 senior, $19 children 3-11. (updated Apr 2022) 3 Pickering Wharf Marina, 68 Wharf St, ☏ +1 978-210-4584. M-Th Su 8AM-6PM, F Sa 8AM-9PM.

Salem remains a small town, and as such the tourist attractions here fall within a tightly packed area. A stretch of Essex Street, from Washington St to Hawthorne Blvd, is closed to cars and is a delight to walk. Walking across the city; say from the ferry dock to the Witch House, is barely over a mile. Most folks should be able to cover this distance in about 20-25 minutes. The sites you'll pass along the way are packed with more than enough curios to hold anyone's attention. The Salem Harborwalk is a short walkway along the South River basin, extending from Derby to Congress streets. It's a nice way to escape the crowds on Derby, and there are even a few picnic tables squeezed in-between the parking lots. Bluebikes, toll-free: +1-855-948-2929. 24 hours daily. The same Bluebike system running in Boston runs here as well. There are 8 stations total, and bikes can be returned to any rack. There's a rack by the ferry terminal, one by the train station, one up by Salem Willows, and the rest are scattered around downtown. You'll need to install an app on your smartphone to use the system. $3 every 30 minutes until you return the bike. (updated Jun 2022) The downtown area is often congested, and becomes all but impassable to cars during October. Do not drive to Salem on Halloween. On street parking is generally good for about 2-4 hours and costs a dollar or two per hour. The city also owns a few garages and off-street lots if you're in need of some longer-term parking. Your best bet is going to be in one of the lots off of Church Street.

As in the rest of the country, dial 911 in an emergency for help. Overall, Salem is a very safe city with a crime rate far below the US average. Take the same standard precautions you would anywhere else. Keep valuables out of sight, don't flash wads of cash, take your headphones off, and so on. Many visitors come to Salem to blow off steam, so don't be surprised to see increasingly drunken behavior as the night wears on. Bars tend to close around midnight-1AM. Finally, don't let any black cats cross your path, and if you find a monkey's paw leave it alone!