Keene, NY Road Trips

In describing the settlement of Keene, historian H.P. Smith writes “Pioneers penetrated its primitive forests and scaled the natural barriers formed by its precipices as early as 1797.” Most came by way of a rough, almost impassable road linking Keene with Jay and Lewis. Benjamin Payne was the first of those pioneers to put down roots in Keene. He emigrated from Keene, NH, by way of a marked tree trail from Westport. In 1860, the Beede Boarding House opened for business and welcomed T.S. Perkins, the first of many artists to arrive at this North Country wilderness and the beginning of a wave of summer visitors. During the latter half of the 19th century, Keene Flats became known as the “Yosemite of the East”. In 1872 more than 500 guests vacationed here. The first Adirondack Bicycle Club was formed here in 1897. It developed a riding trail between Keene Valley and St. Huberts. When it folded in 1920, the bike path became a hiking trail. In 1883 Keene Flats became Keene Valley with its own post office. Hiking, health, capturing nature on canvas and waxing philosophical in the mountain air turned Keene and Keene Valley into a summer resort. The Adirondack Mountain Reserve was incorporated in 1892 and the road to the lower Ausable Lake was built. Guides and caretakers led visitors hiking, hunting and fishing. The tourism industry was established. At the end of the century the town was filled with guest houses, general stores, vegetable gardens, meat markets and all of the commercial facilities needed to run a tourist community.

Keene and Keene Valley boast a location central to the Adirondack High Peaks region, so the views are breathtaking. Attractions are of an alternative, if more natural manner - the mountains and crevasses that rise on all sides in this area are spectacular.

Keene Valley is the most common starting point for the High Peaks region of the Adirondacks, and Mt. Marcy is the most popular mountain. A strenuous full day's hike, or a solid two day hike, Mt Marcy is New York's highest peak, at 5,344 feet. The views atop Marcy's peak are astounding, and on a clear day seeing well beyond fifty miles is guaranteed. Be prepared to encounter plenty of people, though, as Marcy draws a consistent crowd of fifty at the summit on most fine spring, summer and fall days. Fall foliage is best seen in late August. There are two trail heads for Marcy, one of which is reached by a shuttle from the Keene Valley airport. It's probably best to pick up one of the many climbing guides available for this region. Less experienced climbers will probably want to hook up with one of the many local guide services.

1 Noon Mark Diner, 1770 NY-73, ☏ +1 518-576-4499. Cheap, yummy food. The walls have some pictures showing what the town of Keene used to look like. $5-10. (updated Mar 2019)

AuSable Inn, 1809 Route 73. Bed & breakfast and restaurant. (updated Aug 2016) Keene Valley Lodge, 1834 Route 73. Bed & breakfast with a common area. (updated Aug 2016) The Snow Goose, 1433 NYS Route 73 (just outside town), ☏ +1 518 576-9460, [email protected]. Small bed and breakfast just outside town, very close to hiking trails. Excellent breakfasts.

Most residents have a car. During the winter, this area gets some pretty fierce snow storms, making it prudent to add leeway to one's itinerary, and bring snow tires. A Trailways bus travels from New York's Port Authority, arriving every day at the Noonmark Diner. The nearest railway station is in Westport, 20 miles to the east, which is served by Amtrak and its once-daily Adirondack train between New York City and Montreal.

Most trail heads can be reached by any working car, but a few of the back roads require a four wheel drive vehicle with an appropriately skilled driver. Hiking trails are everywhere, so walking is a very viable option.