Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA Road Trips

Carmel is five miles south of Monterey city in the Monterey Bay region of California. A mostly upper-class destination for adults, the town itself is small – you can walk across the main part in five minutes – but filled with art galleries, cafes, restaurants and inns. Every evening, visitors gather on the pristine beach to watch colorful sunsets. Carmel's rocky coastline is picturesque but dangerous for boats, so unlike most coastal towns in California, it was never a good base for fishing. After the 1906 earthquake in San Francisco, it became famous as an artist colony, and there are still several dozen art galleries in town. Temperatures in September are perfect: 70-80°F (21-27°C) during the day and 50-60°F (10-16°C) at night. Bring sweaters and dress in layers for all-day activities. Ocean Avenue is downtown's main street, sloping from the highway down to the beach, with many shops, coffee houses, and galleries. Scenic Drive meanders along the curve of the beach. A packed dirt path along the roadside is a favorite with local joggers and dog-walkers. The town is especially dog-friendly with many lodging and dining accommodations welcoming the canine guests. Carmel Valley is formed by the Carmel River, flowing some 20 miles from the Santa Lucia mountains to the Pacific Ocean. The town of Carmel Valley is located 12 miles inland from Highway 1, on Carmel Valley Road. Quite often when Carmel-by-the-Sea is fogged in, Carmel Valley is sunny and warm.

1 Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, 3080 Rio Rd (bus 24 from Monterey or Carmel), ☏ +1 831 624-1271, fax: +1 831 624-8050. W-Th 10AM-4PM, F-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11:30AM-5PM. One of the 21 California missions established by Father Junipero Serra along the coast of California. Established in 1771, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful of the missions. Father Serra, the leader behind the greater Spanish mission to California, is buried along with his most faithful lieutenant at the front of the church. During the lifetimes of Father Serra and Father Fermin Lasuen, it was the headquarters of the mission system from 1771 until 1833. Self-guided tours take you through the remaining original buildings which now hold exhibits, a small museum, and a gift shop. Catholic Masses occur regularly. Keep in mind that the mission is a working Catholic church, so dress and act respectfully. $10/adult, $7/senior, $5/youth. (updated Feb 2022) 2 Tor House, 26304 Ocean View Ave, ☏ +1 831 624-1813, [email protected]. Tours on Sat at 10AM/11AM/Noon/1PM. Carmel Point, just to the south of Carmel Village. The famous stone home of poet Robinson Jeffers. Tours take about 1hr. $12/adult, $7/student. (updated Jan 2022) 3 Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, ☏ +1 831 624-4909. 8AM–5PM. Considered the crown jewel of the California State Park system, Point Lobos is just south of Carmel on Highway 1.

Architecture. Stroll through the town and admire the incredibly diverse architecture. The quintessential "Carmel cottage" abounds but contrasts, sometimes wildly, with the assortment of surrounding homes. 1 Forest Theater (Santa Rita St & Mountain View Ave). The historic outdoor Forest Theater presents community theater performances in a sort of natural amphitheater nestled in a pine forest. There are also film screenings throughout the summer as part of "Films in the Forest." Be sure to bring blankets and something warm to drink. 2 Carmel Beach (at the end of Ocean Ave). Bring a dog, a Frisbee, or a camera for a stroll down the beach. Dip your toes, or a bit more if you can brave the chill. Be prepared for a crisp ocean breeze. Build a twilight beach bonfire on the stretch of sand at the bottom of 13th (fires must be out by 10PM). Bring lots of blankets, hot drinks, and smore ingredients! Surfing is a possibility for very experienced surfers only (vicious riptides scour the coastline) - take off from the beach at the bottom of 8th. 3 Carmel River State Beach, ☏ +1 831-649-2836. The quieter Carmel River State Beach adjoins an estuary that provides perfect bird-watching opportunities. On the hill across from the lagoon is a wooden cross marking the centuries-old "port" for supply ships to the mission. Wading in the river here is possible, but the steep slope of the beach makes for a violent current, and swimming in the ocean here is not a good idea. (updated Sep 2020) 4 Monastery Beach.

Carmel restaurants tend to be on the fancy side – eight of them are listed in the Michelin Guide, and one has a star – which means it's a delightful place for the foodie, but also that they tend to be on the expensive side. Many of the bigger restaurants serve lunch and dinner, so if you have your heart set on a fancy meal but don't relish the accompanying price tag, then consider making reservations for lunch, and plan a sunset picnic or a more reasonably priced restaurant for dinner. 1 Allegro Pizzeria, 3770 The Barnyard. Offers pizza complemented by a wide selection of classic Italian entrees. The crust is the perfect cross between thick and thin, crispy and chewy. $20. (updated May 2022) 2 Bruno's Market & Deli, 6th & Junipero St (downtown), ☏ +1 831 624-3821. The gourmet deli is a must-visit. Especially worthwhile are the tri-tip sandwich and authentic tamales. Perfect to go for a picnic on the beach. This market also carries groceries, including some imported groceries, but if you contemplate a major grocery run, your wallet will thank you for heading out to the Safeway or Lucky on the other side of the highway. $10–15. (updated May 2022) 3 Carmel Bakery, Ocean Ave (between Dolores St & Lincoln St), ☏ +1 831-626-8885. 7:30AM til they run out. Carmel Bakery was established in 1899, making it the oldest retail business in the village and the oldest building in the village. (updated Feb 2022) 4 R.G. Burgers, 201 Crossroads Blvd. Boasts burgers, shakes, and sandwiches. The simple, cheery decor and quick service make it a favorite among families. $25.

Carmel Valley Coffee, Ocean Ave (between Lincoln & Monte Verde). 6:30AM-5:30PM. Opened in 1994. (updated Feb 2022) Most Carmel drinking revolves around local wines; be sure to indulge in a bottle, available at almost any food shop and every restaurant or stop into any winery's tasting room. Several restaurants also offer bar areas; but an honest-to-goodness "pub crawl" would be hard to come by in this town. Alvarado Street Brewery, Carmel Plaza, Suite 112 (Ocean & Mission St), ☏ +1 831 293-8621, [email protected]. 11:30AM-8PM. This is the Carmel outpost of Monterey's brewpub with outdoor seating. (updated Jan 2022) Carmel Craft Brewing Co, 3777 The Barnyard of Carmel (inside Barnyard Shopping Village). W-F 3-8PM, Sa 11AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. An experimental pico-brewery opened in 2018. (updated Jan 2022)

Additional lodging options can be found just to the east in Carmel Valley, or to the north in Monterey. Many hotels are less expensive during the rainy winter months (approximately November to March) than during peak tourist months. 1 Best Western (Corner of San Carlos Street and Fifth Avenue). $100. 2 Carmel Wayfarer Inn, 4th & Mission St. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. $75-125. 3 Carmel Lodge (San Carlos Street & 5th Avenue), ☏ +1 831 624-1255. $100-150. 4 Carmel Mission Inn, 3665 Rio Rd, ☏ +1-831-624-1841, toll-free: +1-800-348-9090. Check-in: 4PM, check-out: 11AM. Combines a private garden setting with the warmth of a country inn. Offers free Wi-Fi access. $200–300. (updated May 2022) 5 Coachmans Inn (San Carlos Street & 7th Avenue), ☏ +1-831-624-6421, toll-free: +1-800-366-6421, [email protected]. All of the services of a hotel with the ambiance of an inn located in downtown Carmel. $150-200. 6 Country Garden Inns, 102 West Carmel Valley Rd, ☏ +1-831-659-5361, toll-free: +1-800-641-4646. $150-200. 7 Green Lantern Inn, 7th Ave, ☏ +1 831-624-4392. Collection of cottages and duplex amongst pine and oak trees. Quiet, quaint, rustic yet romantic and comfortable. $100-150. 8 Pine Inn, Monte Verde St, ☏ +1 831-624-3851. Historic, full-service boutique style hotel right in downtown and walking to the ocean. Elegant rooms with charm and character. $150-200. 9 Svendsgaard's Inn (San Carlos Street & 4th Ave), ☏ +1 831-624-1511. Freshly baked cookies and coffee offered daily give this inn with its lovely courtyard a sense of home. $125-175.

By Highway 1 south from Monterey or northwards via Big Sur. Monterey-Salinas Transit. Take a bus 1, 2 or 24 from Monterey. $2.50/adult, $1.25/concession. (updated Feb 2022) Amtrak's Coast Starlight stops in nearby Salinas. Amtrak runs a bus service from the station to Carmel with stops in Monterey in between. The train can be slow and is often delayed. The food is okay, but sometimes limited so you might want to bring your own food or snacks. Nearby Monterey Airport (MRY IATA) offers connecting service through a number of different airlines. The airport also handles a large volume of private air traffic. San Jose Airport (SJC IATA) is about a 90-minute drive away, but it is larger and usually has much cheaper flights.

There are no street numbers for homes or businesses in the main part of the town. Directions are given by street name and the nearest intersection. There are almost no street lights at night, and the signs for restaurants and other businesses are not brightly lit. The downtown area and nearby beach can be seen on foot, but a car is needed to explore the coastline. Street parking is generally free for a couple of hours at a time. There is also a garage at Carmel Plaza (Ocean and Junipero). Many hotels offer parking spots to guests, but be prepared for a tight squeeze. Scenic Drive sometimes yields surprisingly convenient (and free) parking spaces. Bicycling is an option but should be undertaken with care, as many of Carmel's streets can be hilly or windy, or leave little room to pass. There are a few local buses, but routes run primarily between Carmel and Monterey, rather than around Carmel, except for bus 24 which continues through Carmel to Carmel Valley.